Creating
an Infrared Digicam from a Fuji FinePix 2650
December 22ND, 2007
First off, I
wouldn't recommend doing this with a camera you care about, as
digital cameras can be fragile, and not too easy to repair. This
mod may damage you camera beyond repair if it doesn't work. I am
surprised, but even "lousy" digital cameras of 1.0 megapixel
or less will cost you over $20 on ebay, and easily into $30 or
$40 when you include shipping. Which is really astounding considering
new 6.0 megapixel digital cameras can cost only $99 new. Why would
someone pay $45 for a camera from 2000?
The subject for
this experiment is a Fuji Finepix 2650 I bought for $21.00 off
ebay. This mod seemed to go so well I bought an additional Finepix
for $23.99, however the second camera has a non functioning LCD.
Actually the LCD itself still works, but something is wrong with
the camera insides so nothing is being displayed on it. Anyway,
on to the modifications. BTW, Suggested Retail Price in 10/2002
- $249.99.
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| Camera Front |
Camera Front,
Opened |
Camera Back |
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| Camera
Top |
Camera Bottom |
Necessary
Materials |
Step 1:
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My
camera came without any external screws, so I am going to
have to do some research to let you know if any of the externals
are a different length. The camera back pops off pretty easily.
Be sure to take out the batteries and open the battery cover
to help the back come off.
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Step 2:
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The first
step in the mod is to unhook the lone ribbon cable, and begin
to take off the LCD Display Screen so we can get down into
the camera easier.
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This picture
shows the LCD screws removed and the Ribbon cable removed.
You can see that there is one screw that is slightly longer
than the others. Take note of this for when you are replacing
the LCD screen.
I have
also removed the ribbon cable to the right of the camera
in anticipation of removing the rear circuit board. |
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There
is actually a metal frame holding the LCD and ribbon cable
in place. You can pop the LCD out and unhook it from the
ribbon cable quite easily.
With the
LCD screen removed, it is much easier going to get to the
CCD. |
| Here you
can see the camera with the LCD removed. At this point, you
can carefully slide the whole back circuit board out of the
camera. This is the point you should be careful not to touch
the flash capacitor. You risk electric shock (which I experienced). |
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Step 3:
| This
sequence of images shows the removal of the rear circuit board.
It slides out pretty easily. The lens assembly is attached
to the rear circuit board. On the other side you can look at
the front of the camera and the lens. The back of the circuit
board is what we care about. There are two silver screws that
we need to remove so that we can get to the CCD. |
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Step 4:
Remove
the screws, and turn the circuit board over. The lens assembly
should come right off. The CCD and hot mirror / IR Blocking
Filter in red (in this photo) should now be accessible. The
filter
actually
changes color between red and blue depending on how the light
strikes
it.
The filter
is held on with a little glue but is easy to pry off. I removed
it, replaced it with a chunk of slide glass I cut down to
a similar size. |
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Here
you can see the replacement glass I added to the camera.
I am not sure if this is necessary for cameras that have
no zoom
capability, but I try to replace glass where glass was taken
from.
In the
second photo I have added two pieces of exposed, developed
film. Take care not to touch any of the glass or makeshift
filter you add to the camera. Any dust that gets into the
lens or onto the CCD will ruin any of your pictures. Be careful
never to touch the CCD as you will probably never be able
to remove all the grease you left behind.
Seal the
lens back up, screw in all 5 screws you removed to do the mod,
replace all external screws and try out your new IR camera! |
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Sample Images:
This
is an example of what you can expect from the image quality
prior to making the IR Modification. Its one of only 2 pictures
I think I took before performing the modification. Victory
Brewery is Located in Downingtown PA.
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Since
it was dark out when I did this camera modification I was
limited with my test subjects. This is actually an autographed
Boston Bruins jersey we have hanging in our computer room.
Its a neat picture because the jersey has white, black, and
yellow stripes across it. All of which do not show up in
the Visible IR spectrum. It is interesting because some of
the
stitching shows up black, obviously it has different IR
properties than the rest of the fabric.
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After
the sun came out, I gave the IR camera another test, and
found that I had misaligned the new visible light filter.
You can see in the color IR image that the left side of
the picture is brighter than the right side. It is less obvious
in the grayscale image, but it will need to be fixed.
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I
fixed up the filter and got it aligned properly. Looks like
you only need 1 piece of exposed, developed, negative film.
Enjoy this picture of our Christmas Tree in IR.
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